The airport is small and we get through immigration quickly. Our Taxi driver, Ahmed, an old fair man who looks like he is well on the road to retirement. He is wearing a white Thobe (Arabic dress for men) and smells of cigarettes. His hair is uncombed and beard unkempt. He is chewing on a piece of bark which in Arabic is known as Miswak – a traditional toothbrush.
Ahmed is a repository of knowledge of Bahrain’s sights, treasures and culture and he is proud to share it. “The people here are very friendly. You need any help, just say “Salaam” to the first person you meet and ask him the directions to the place you want to go”, he says as we enjoy the beautiful sights on the way to the hotel.
“We used to have a lot of pearls before, the size of pebbles that could be found all around the coast of Bahrain and it is still considered one of the best in the world. That is why if you notice our flag, you will see that it’s not a coincidence that its red and pearl white,” says Ahmed.
According to Ahmed there are many hotels and resorts in the kingdom of Bahrain to suit varying budgets including the luxurious Ritz Carlton, Move and Pick, and the Kempinski.We head to the Ritz Calton, a 7 star hotel situated on the northern side of Bahrain about 11 kms from the Airport. Ahmed told us that it is considered as one of the grandest hotels in Bahrain and is known for its high class and top notch service. When the F1 is organized in Bahrain all the people involved stay at the Ritz Ahmed informs us.
The hotel has a grand look both inside and outside. Inside sparkling marble flooring greet us. The security is intense, almost like at the White House. Welcomed with a refreshing soft drink, the soft music that plays in the background encourages us to step forward.
We get a room with a view! We relax and plan ournext day, have a grand buffet dinner and are off to bed. We wake up to a beautiful view – the sunrise.
Sights and sounds of Bahrain
Ahmed promptly comes the next day to take us on a tour of the city. As we drive out of the hotel he explains Bahraini culture. “Bahrain follows almost similar culture and traditions of Islam as that of its neighbors. It is also known as mini-Dubai because it offers alcohol and tolerates other religions and people. There are places of worship of other religions too here.” says Ahmed, “The main language spoken here is Arabic but as in all the Gulf countries there’s a little difference in the way they speak it and a few words here and there are mixed up.”
As we drive through the market place Ahmed explains Bahraini men wear a traditional dress called “Thobe” along with their headgear. The Thobe, or “Dishdasha” in Kuwaiti, is a loose, long- sleeved, ankle-length garment. Summer thobes are white and made of cotton and winter thobes can be darker colored and made of wool according to Ahmed. As we pass by a group of ladies covered in a black dress from head to toe, Ahmed explains that this is the“Burka” or the “Abaya”as it is called in Arabic. He goes on tell us that it is compulsory for all Muslim women to be covered at all times in the presence of men due to their religion.“But in Bahrain very few people actually follow this cultural tradition except when some official function happens because Bahrain wants to show they can also be like one of the western countries. Now only the older generation wears it on a daily basis,” he says.
Islands in the stream
The next day, we visit one of the islands known as Hawar. The only way to get to these islands is through an hour and half journey by a speed boat. This island is a part of a group of islands situated off the west coast of Qatar in the Gulf of Bahrain. The Qatar border is visible from our hotel, which in itself is a delight with varied activity to keep us busy and a sumptuous and varied buffet to ease our hunger pangs later on.
The sound of the gentle waves hitting the seashore, small kids playing on the seashore making sand castles, smell of the delicious cuisine and the lights of Qatar seashore in the distance, create a vision of heaven. Waking up to the beautiful sunrise over the blue ocean, with its fierce golden red rays lazily floating over the seashore and the yellow sand is a treat by itself. Tip: Carry your Passport along and book in advance for a trip to this Island.
During the day, there are tours into the heart of the island to see its unique wildlife like gazelles, hares, flamingos, and other migratory animals/birds that come and choose this harsh environment as a place to rest and sometimes to breed. These trips into the protected areas of Hawar happen 3-4 times a day and are a delight to people of all ages. We spent three delightful days on this island which is both hectic and relaxing.
Amwaj is another such island that we peep into, but it is attached to the main land and is accessible by car. It is the same as Hawar but the difference is that this island is more modern and not as deserted as Hawar. It is one of the best places to “Hang out” as you have the sea, the villas, shops, variety of restaurants, water sports etc. You do get beaches, the soft sand, the sunrise and sunset – There is more than a passing resemblance to the Dubai floating city. Open beaches with the blue and green water splashing on the man-made shores, sand so soft you would not want to wear shoes ever again, date and palm trees to provide shade, friendly people all over the place, and from some distant corner some person roasting his BBQ, that’s what Amwaj is all about.
Fast and furious
The next place on our bucket list is the Bahrain International Circuit where the F1 (Formula One) races are held every year and the Sakir Village next to it. The circuit which was completed in 2004 is not only used for F1 car races but also for drag races and V8 races which also has a huge fan following in the Gulf Region.
It was a huge hit when it first opened to the public and was the host for the 2004 F1 races. It was cancelled in 2006 because of internecine clashes that forced the authorities to bring out the army to restore peace, informs Ahmed. The sad part for us is that it is off season and we encounter empty tracks with only traces of tyre burn to tell us a tale of speed.
The Sakir Village is located five minutes away just behind the circuit. It offers a complete insight of how the ancient Arab people lived because there are no concrete buildings, very little electricity, and a lot of tents for people to take on hire. When you enter the village itself, you can get a feeling of how the ancient Arabs or /Bedouins or “Badhus” in Arabic lived. This is mainly a camping area for visitors.
Our camping compound has 4 tents – 2 big tents complete with a ground sofa, air conditions and lights. Some of the tents have a satellite television included. It even has a toilet which is essentially a small 2 by 2 feet tent with a trench dug in the ground and a sand mound with a shovel outside to cover up after the act. The smaller tents I am told are for the BBQ to be cooked in case of a sandstorm. A sandstorm often reduces the visibility to less than 2 feet and can literally pepper and blow away the BBQ!
With soft sand underfoot, BBQ going in the pit, the noise of people enjoying in the distance, camp fire roaring in the night, roasting marshmallows on sticks on the fire, the cool dark sky above our heads, mountains surrounding us and a small corner of the circuit in the periphery – I feel like I am one with nature.
Gourmet Cuisine to feast on
The food in Bahrain is not just all about BBQ and Shawarma, but a lot more. The Arabic Coffee or “Gahwa” as it’s more commonly known – basically coffee beans that are roasted very lightly along with certain spices like cardamom, cloves and/or saffron – is generally served to guests along with dates. The dates add the sweetness to the coffee. The coffee looks mostly golden yellow in color but can vary depending on what spices are added. It is served without sugar ormilk in small glasses.
Since Bahrain is an island, it has an abundant supply of fish. The most popular among the fish dishes is the grilled Hamour (Grouper Fish) served along with Khubz (Arabic flat bread) or rice which is a delicacy among many.
“Kabsa” is king of Bahraini Cuisine. It is roasted or BBQ chicken on top of slightly flavored rice. Mostly any type of meat goes on top of the rice like Camel, Goat, Lamb, Beef, Shrimp, Chicken and sometimes fish. The fish and meats are usually served as a whole and not cut into pieces. The aroma is stomach wrenching.
The visit is nearing its end. Our good friend Ahmed drops us off at the airport and waves good bye. We will miss him as I will miss Bahrain that taught me that size does not matter! For Bahrain is a place that at once quickens the senses, relaxes the nerves and creates memories that stay forever.
